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The rudder stops, made and
installed to the drawings, didn't stop the rudder. The elevator did, which
wasn't good for either. Tim Lewis showed me how he fixed it on his RV-6A, so
I happily copied it. Tim's RV is parked in a T-hangar about 100' from my office...whenever
he's working on it during business hours, I spend a little while looking it
over for ideas. It was Tim who gave me my one and only ride in an RV...a
"free" ride that will end up costing me as much as a Mercedes Benz.
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Tim's solution (I don't know if he
invented it, but I'll give him credit anyway) is to build up the rudder arm
with some 1/8" plate, cut to fit and installed with flush rivets. It
fits in the profile of the existing rudder arm. |
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The optional aileron trim ought to
be installed at the same time as the control stick assembly. Not doing so
added an hour of unnecessary work. Since it's an optional part, the normal
drawing set and instructions don't mention it. Oh well...lesson learned. The
aileron trim consists of an electric actuator which biases the stick one way
or the other by stretching springs. After I took this photo, I removed the
safety wire and did it over again, to get more preload on the springs.
They're supposed to stay more or less tight throughout the range of the
ailerons. Also, no contact with fixed structure is allowed throughout the
pitch and roll ranges. You can feel the springs as you move the stick, but I
suspect that it'll be unnoticeable compared to the air loads. I certainly
didn't notice it while flying Tim's RV-6A, which has manual trim (I assume
that aside from the deletion of the actuator, the two are identical.) |
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